Kauri Forest

We wandered down to the giant Kauri forest on the west coast of the north island. These massive trees used to cover the island, but are now restricted to several small reserves that protect some of the larger specimens. The entire story and history is very similar to the California Redwoods. And the size of these trees is similar!

The main difference is that these trees are found in a temperate or subtropical rainforest. Thousands of epiphitic mosses, ferns, vines, and other plants live up in the canopy. A plant that looks very similar to a bromeliad cover the skyward branches. It's very similar to tropical rainforest, except that we weren't attacked by bugs!





Another difference I noticed from tropical rainforests is the abundance of grassy plants.


The giant Kauri (Agathis australis). We could see a high canopy looming in the sky, the all at once the tree appeared. This tree, Tane Mauta, is the largest known living Kauri tree (according to the interpretive sign).


Here is a description of the tree, and the Maori legend that accompanies it. This is one of the largest trees remaining.


Although Jon is not standing right at the base, he still gives a sense of scale. This first tree is right off the road, a five minute walk the sign said. It took Jon and I about an hour...we must have looked like total freaks checking out each and every moss, lichen, plant, bird, and whatever along the way. This was our first rainforest walk, so that's our excuse! After our stroll here, we headed down the road to where a larger track takes you to several stands of these magnificent trees...


The first part of the trail seemed to be a secondary regenerating forest.


The trees are incredibly stout, then form a large canopy at the top. There seem to be hundreds of plants living in the crown, an entire ecosystem in each tree. Magnificent.


The trail to the 'Four Sisters' trees.


The trail through the forest was usually a raised boardwalk to protect the feeding roots of the trees. The wood is covered in a rubber or plastic mesh to keep you from slipping...very ingenious.


Te Matua Ngahere (Faher of the Forest), the second largest known living Kauri tree.


Te Matua Ngahere (Faher of the Forest), the second largest known living Kauri tree. We met a nice woman here who is getting her PhD studyig pelagic pengins. We pondered for a while if birders or botanists were weirder...she's on her way to a penguin conference in Austrailia, and thinks that that group will win the prize. We saw some wonderful birds while spending time with her, and of course she had great binoculars allowing us to see them all up close.


There are four species of tree ferns here (according to our little tree book). Apparently the silver tree fern (on the right) was used by the Mauri for marking trails. The tree ferns here really accentuate the feeling that we're in a relictual plant community. They say that this area is still relatively similar to gondwanaland, as the forests here evolved without any herbivorous preditors. It does feel extremely primeval.


The trail to the Yakas tree was a bit longer, and it was getting late, so we had to start moving ourselves along. We may win the prize for the longest forest visitors.


The boardwalk came right up to the Yakas tree, the seventh largest tree. It's enormous!


Yakas tree with Kim


The Kauri forest was really amazing...so diverse and spectacular.

For more information on these incredible trees, see:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agathis_australis

Tapaki Dunes

A light storm was moving in over the area today, making it very windy. Since Kim is a wimp, she stayed in the campervan and painted while Jon explored the dunes. This was a good move for Kim, who doesn't enjoy sand whipping into eyeballs. Jon loves this. Jon had a great time, and took some fantastic pictures of this amazing dune complex.






Dunes with river and forest in the background.


Last night's rain created interesting patterns in the dunes.




Ocean




The river marks the divide between sand and forest. Kim is down there somewhere.




Jon is the tiny speck to the left of the top of the center dune.

After exploring the dunes, we headed south...down towards the great Kauri forests of the west coast.....stay tuned!

Cape Reigna

Cape Reigna is at the north point of the north island, where the Tasman Sea and South Pacific Ocean meet. The lighthouse here is a major 'tourist attraction'. We could see the lighthouse at night from our camp at the other end of the north bay.




View to the south towards Tapaki Dunes from the light house.


Lighthouse trail...yes, it's steep off to the left.


It's a long way home from here...and pretty close to the south pole!




Tapaki Dunes is our next destination...


The north point where the Tasman Sea and South Pacific meet.


We got to see a pod of dolphins play from the lighthouse point. If you click on the picture to enlarge it and look closely at the wave in the middle, you'll see the dolphins.

Now we're off to Tapaki Dunes.....

Spirit's Bay Hike towards Pandora

We set out in the morning for Pandora, a camp at the far end of the sandy beach, near the river mouth. We weren't sure if we'd make it all the way there, but wanted to see a lake near the river mouth.


Jon leading the way on the trail through the back dunes.


The tall dunes were covered in dune grass and the occasional New Zealand flax.


After a couple of hours of walking, we stopped for lunch atop the dunes. The views were magnificent.


I think this is the largest wetland I've ever seen. It appeared that several streams came together here. The light color before the hills in the mid ground is cattails...miles of it!


Veiw looking up the beach towards Cape Reigna.


View looking back down the beach towards our camp.


The wetlands from the top of the dunes. The juncus and grasses waved in the breeze...very soothing and beautiful. The hills are covered in a mix of tea tree and cordyline.


After a long, peaceful walk back, we enjoyed the sunset on the beach. Kim painted and Jon explored.



We stayed here one more night, and set out first thing for Cape Reigna at the far tip of the north island....

Spirit's Bay

The road to Sprit's bay is long and windy, and changes to dirt for last 18K. Around each bend, we were greeted with stunning views of the forests and vast wetland areas. Finally, we arrived right before sunset.


Entrance to the camp ground.


Beautiful volcanic hills.


The horses were the only other large mammals in the area!


Spirit's bay gets it's name due to Maori legend. They believe (so I read) that the soul travels to this area, and climbs a pohutukawa tree at the edge of a cliff to travel across the sea to the after life. It's amazingly similar to the Chumash transition legend near Point Conception. You can really imagine how this belief arose by experiencing this heavenly landscape.


Our campsite right on the estuary with beach dunes in the background. The horses are across the river.


The rock formations are amazing. The low, windswept plants are teatree. Cordyline australis, a common landscape and houseplant, are the tall strap-leaf plants at the top of the ridge.


While Jon went out exploring, I cooked an Indian curry dinner. We found some garlic naan at a shop on the way here, we've got our mango chutney and yoghurt, and we're ready to dine!


Time for Kim's sunrise walk...time for Jon to snore at full volume! Yes, the white speck is the campervan, and yes, we are the only people out here! It's pretty darned cold, which is why I suspect we're the only people crazy enough to camp here. But it is stunning!


The beach is sprinkled with chips of seashell, creating a peach color in the morning light.





We suspect that this is a native dune grass. There is a lot of European Beach grass here, as well. The coloration on this species is beautiful. I'm noticing a lot of the oranges and dark greens in the flora here.



There are lots of little Plovers on the beach, and apparently it's nesting season here! We'll definitely have to be very careful on the beach.


The weather is shifting from sun to dark, but we're still planning to hike out to the other end of the beach, to a place called Pandora. The big rivermouth is at the other end of the beach. Time for breakfast and to bundle up for the long walk! Stay tuned!